Old denim can become the starting point for an entirely new garment instead of reaching the end of its useful life.

Designers and independent makers increasingly work with existing jeans, jackets and denim offcuts, taking them apart and reconstructing the fabric into new shapes. Sleeves can be built from layered strips, hems can be knotted or woven and damaged sections can be replaced with contrasting textiles.

Denim is particularly suitable for this kind of work because it is durable and changes character as it ages. Fading, frayed edges and differences in colour between older pieces can become part of the finished design instead of something that needs to be concealed.

Some techniques are relatively simple, such as adding fabric flowers or replacing a conventional hem. Others involve substantial reconstruction, combining several garments to create a new jacket, skirt or top.

Reworking also creates possibilities that are difficult to achieve with new fabric. Different washes can be placed beside each other, seams can be repositioned and existing pockets or waistbands can become decorative elements.

The result is denim that carries traces of its previous form while functioning as something completely new.

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